Friday, March 28, 2008

Bustling City of Hanoi, Vietnam

What do I think of Hanoi? Let’s just say I have mixed feelings.

After a 3-hour flight from KL, we arrived at Noi Ba International Airport as early as 8.30am in the morning (an hour behind Malaysian time). We arranged for airport transfer to Little Hanoi 3 Hotel at Au Trieu Street in the Old Quarter where we left our backpacks and ventured straight out into the streets. The narrow streets, endless motorbikes, dusty street stalls and the NOISE tell me that we are definitely in Vietnam!

Little Hanoi 3
Little Hanoi 3 - our base although we only spent a night here


busy street

Everyone just loves their horn here. There seems to be no visible road rules, no traffic control and honking is obligatory. You just can’t get away from the noise.

St Joseph Cathedral
St. Joseph Cathedral, right next to our hotel offers a glimpse into the era of French colonialism. It’s charming when the bell chimes. (If you ignore the noise and surroundings, it’s almost like being in Europe)

It pricks your senses to drink in the sights and sounds of the city. We spent the morning trying to orientate ourselves in the maze of streets.

sidewalk barber
Fancy a haircut?

street stall
Sidewalk café?

street vendors
More street vendors..


We later had lunch at Cha Ca La Vong, the famous old restaurant spanning five generations. It is so famous that the street where it is located is named after it. Up the slightly steep and creaking staircase, we came into the area with empty table set-ups and realized we were the first customers of the day. Lucky us as the place filled up quickly from then on.

Cha Ca La Vong
Cha Ca La Vong


Cha Ca menu
Indicated to us that we need not think of what to order. 90,000 dong (about USD6) seems a bit pricey by local standards. We settled with 4 servings for 5 of us.

Cha Ca
Cha Ca (reads Cha Ga) - The waiter obviously knew we were tourists and showed us how to cook the food, dumping in loads of vegetables and the fish paste and stirring everything together.

Right at the heart of Hanoi is the Hoan Kiem Lake, the lake of the returned sword. It is the where people meet and all activities from locals concentrated at from jogging to stretching exercises to young couples spending quiet moments together to tourists snapping away with their cameras (us!)

Hoan Kiem Lake
The Tortoise Tower situated scenically at the center of the lake, making for more reflection photos

Hoan Kien Lake - nite view
Hoan Kiem Lake at night


Next tourist attraction we made sure we covered before leaving Hanoi.

Ho Chi Minh
Ho Chi Minh Mousoleum

You must be wondering what is the fun in having to queue up to see a dead body. The guards are not terribly friendly and we have to form a quiet line to view his body. Uncle Ho, embalmed and put on display, looks peaceful as if in deep slumber. Surrounded by 4 guards who stand motionless, the room is hushed in silence and the atmosphere somber. It is a vision of respect, quite a remarkable experience reflecting the Vietnamese pride for someone who united their country.

snake wine
Snake wine, anyone?
Not that adventurous with food, we opted for ‘safe’ places to fill our stomachs.

La Place
Down the street from our hotel, La Place obviously caters for tourists and we’re suckers :P. We ended up having 2 meals there for it is convenience and time saving. Even affectionately gave the place a pet name – Ratatouille (yup, that’s right. A rat gave us a fright while we were dining)

In our search for a nice bowl of Pho Bo (beef noodle soup), who would have thought I found the best I have tasted in our hotel breakfast!

Pho Bo
Later confirmed that the yummy Pho Bo came from next door of which is incredibly packed from early morning.

Ok, so having passed by so many streetside food stalls, it would have been a waste not to try sitting on one of those cute tiny chairs for the experience of it. We spotted this student fruit juice bar next to St Joseph Cathedral where a lot of locals seem to hang around. Decided to give it a try.

student bar
Student Bar - Delicious fruit juices. We totally enjoyed this. Similar to ‘lepaking’ at mamak stall back home.

On our last night in Hanoi, (one of the condition for mmkk to join us for the trip) we splurged on a meal at Bobby Chinn Restaurant
. She must have fell for celebrity chef Bobby Chinn, host of Discovery Travel and Living’s World Café Asia, and was hoping he was there in person. No such luck though.

Bobby Chinn
The restaurant interior, scattered with rose petals, is definitely the kind of place to take a date out. But most diners were western expats or tourists.

appetizers
Appetizers

main courses
The main courses we ordered

dessert
Yummy crème brulee and the little chocolaty ones were complimentary from the chef

The food was good. But I’m more impressed with the catchy menu, written with great humour.

And of course in an all girls trip, our favourite activity can’t possibly be missing. Moreover, we, as most budget travellers, were staying in the Old Quarter, the shopping haven in Hanoi. Like a huge outdoor shopping mall, the shops are organized according to their specific merchandise and street. There were 36 different streets with each trade adopted a street. There is a direct correlation between a street name and the stuff it sells – head for Silk Street if you are looking for silk, or Shoes Street for shoes, to hardware, to papers etc.

bags shopping
Bags shopping! Day and night scenes at bag stalls, up to the point where we were so tired and sat down on the stall owner’s chairs to negotiate price with him while he took down bags for us to choose. Practically all that we bought in Hanoi are bags, from little clutches to backpacks to trolley bag – we bought an average of 5 bags per person.


bridal bicycles

Bridal bicycles?! There’s this street that sells all sort of wedding stuffs too (as much as I’m amused enough to snap a photo, I hope my dear fiancé won’t take this literally to mean I love the idea)

Hanoi is not a city I immediately warm-up to. We were really pushing things time-wise. It was more of a focal point for trips to Halong Bay and Sapa. Maybe a few extra days would change my opinion. But I doubt any of my travel companions this trip will willingly want to go with me again.

Monday, March 24, 2008

Breath-taking Sapa, Vietnam

It has taken me so long since my return from Vietnam to blog about it due to

  1. the excitement from our historic 12th general election (I’ve never felt more Malaysian before)
  2. recent work load eating into my personal time (won’t get started on this here. Had a fulfilling ‘bitching’ session last week. Thanks girls for sharing and listening)
  3. wedding preparation taking a lead when I do have time (usually emailing vendors for quotations after midnight or arranging appointments that take up my weekends)
  4. me refusing to acknowledge that I’m back facing reality

Anyway, back to Vietnam. Sapa is by far my favorite destination from the trip. This little town in the sky lies in the north west of Vietnam at the border of China and home to many ethnic minority tribes. We nearly scrape Sapa off our itinerary as we only have one day to spare and it was time-consuming and troublesome (read : overnight train ride in consecutive 2 days = no available shower) to get there. But I’m glad we made it.

The adventure started from Hanoi Railway Station. The girl at the hotel told us we could get a cab to the station or walk, showing us Hanoi map. It took us a good one hour walk to arrive at the station. Only to find out that we were at Station A and the train to Lao Cai (nearest station to Sapa) leaves from Station B. A man approached us to give him the tickets and asked us to follow him. What did mom says about strangers giving out candies? We ignored him and walked another half an hour via the main streets to Station B. The same guy was waiting for us at the entrance and insisted we follow him which we did warily and found out that we were right behind Station A if we had followed him through the train tracks. (End up he's from the travel agent we bought the tickets from - he should have explained instead of trying to snatch our tickets away!) What a hilarious episode.

train station
We boarded the Tulico Express that departed at 9.15pm. Slept through the night and arrived 8 hours later at Lao Cai Station.

train cabin
Jumped off from bed when the train stopped abruptly and a lady shouting at us to get down.

It was 5.30 in the morning and the station was pitch dark. We cleaned up at the washroom at the station and negotiated the fare for the minibus ride to Sapa. We seemed to be the last group to leave the station. When we got on the minibus, we realized the whole bus was filled with tourists and with us filling up the remaining seats, we were set to go. No wonder the minibus operator sounded desperate in getting us to go with them. I asked the passengers if they have waited long, the answer was “about half an hour, were you girls lost?” As if that’s even possible at the station! We were simply not told there was a busload of people waiting for us.

The drive to Sapa up the windy roads was a bit foggy. The chill hit us the moment we stepped down from the minibus. It was probably about 10C but it felt colder. We signed up for a day tour of mountain trekking at Cat Cat View Hotel and were offered a room to freshen up before the guide pick us up at 9am. To keep warm, we’ve turned to wearing just about every layer of clothing we brought along in our bags.

Sapa town

Having time to kill, we walked to nearby Sapa market, where hill tribes sell handmade souvenirs besides daily produce. It is fascinating to see the hill tribes dressed in their traditional clothing, somewhat preserved in this little town. Each tribe, largest being H’mong and Dzao people, can be distinguished by their dressing although I’m no expert on them.

Sapa market
Sapa Market

H'mong woman
A H’mong lady at the market

ladies with basket
Woven basket to transport food to and fro Sapa market

Most of the tribe people do not live in Sapa town. They live in villages around the area, up in the mountains and our local H’mong guide, Gi, brought us to 3 villages – Lao Cai, Ta Vanh and I can’t remember the last name of the village.

spectacular view
Such spectacular view

terraced rice paddies
Terraced rice paddies

Gi, aged 17, told us she’s not going to get married. She’s staying alone in Sapa town, her 'business hub' for bringing tourists to the villages. We equaled her to a modern day career woman. Hill tribe women marry young at the age of 15 and give birth the year after. She’s simply not interested in that. Asked if she would like to move to the city, she said yes. Not sure where. Halong Bay maybe. But she has never been out from Sapa town before.

village children
Children at the villages

local school

We stopped by a local school and ‘interrupted’ the class.. haha. It was empty when we arrived but by the time we were leaving after finished taking photos, lesson has started in the next classroom.

river
Gi’s father was drowned in the river. According to her, every year, one villager dies in the mountains.

local guide Gi
Looking upset - Gi was getting impatient with us as we slowed down to take pictures. Little did we know we had a long way to walk!

We finally stopped at a homestay house for a picnic lunch. Were starving by then.

kitchen
The homestay owner cooked us lunch

picnic lunch
Simple but satisfying meal looking out to amazing view

Za
7-year-old Za, Gi’s cousin, is so sweet. Tying mmkk’s hair and she made us the fernleaf crowns. She’s a real cheeky young lady who claimed she doesn’t want to get married like Gi too..

After lunch, we continued trekking. Gi warned us it was going to be a little uphill from then on. And no kidding, it was an uphill task all the way! After walking up windy roads, we began to curse and swear the hotel for conning us with the brochure of “undemanding walks” when we signed up the package.

We have an entourage hiking with us as they were hoping we would purchase some souvenirs from them end of the trek (of which we gladly did so after all the help rendered).

terrains
See that lady carrying her baby behind? Made us looked so incompetent, which I must admit, we are!

muddy 1
“Come, this way”

muddy 2
“OMG!”

muddy 3

“Help! I can’t do this!”
“Come on!”
“NO!!”

our shoes
Our mud-covered shoes – we tried to avoid getting them dirty but Za shouted at us “It’s only dirt! You can wash”

We should be ashamed of ourselves. While we tramped around in sports shoes, the ladies made do with plastic sandals.

After an overall 8 or 9 kilometres of walking, our journey ended when we reached the point where the jeep was waiting for us. Back to Sapa, we explored the town further and lingered around Cat Cat View Hotel for a cup of hot drink while waiting for the minibus to take us back to Lao Cai Station for the night train.

Cat Cat View Hotel
The view from the hotel

We left Sapa that evening bringing with us this amazing experience. Sapa is such a peaceful little town, a nice change of pace to Hanoi. Very surreal to say the least.

view from hotel
Snapshot of a traveller – My dream holiday; to put up my legs and read a book overlooking spectacular view.. such bliss

Credits : Thanks Cellie – stole some of your pics :P